Prabal Gurung’s Spring collection saw perfect proportions and precious techno materials executed with a restrained sensuality in chic silhouettes – nonchalant neo-glamour and luxurious simplicity. - [StyleSight]
The mood was mid-century, only amped way, way up with pastels and acid brights—colors that practically pulsated under the fluorescent lights of the clear plastic-encased set. But if the silhouettes—wiggle dresses, grand opera coats, narrow pencil skirts with deep back vents—said 1950s, the execution was twenty-first century high-tech. The understated white cotton poplin sheath he opened the show with exposed a molded plastic harness in back (there's that bite). The tweed bouclé he used for a skirtsuit earned the term "technical," woven as it was on plastic thread. And only after much cajoling did his factory agree to try screen-printing a translucent PVC raincoat with his voluptuous abstract rose motif.
Some of the plastic pieces were too futuristic and experimental for their own good—try sitting down in a PVC pencil skirt. But Gurung got into a groove with the final third of his show. The quartet of strapless satin numbers with exposed corsets and cascades of ruffles down the back were a riposte to the insipid red-carpet fare Hollywood tends to favor. And it will be a very lucky girl who gets to wear his white-and-black sweetheart gown with the exuberant sash at the waist.